Martinique beyond the guidebooks
Everyone talks about Martinique. Grande Anse des Salines, Pointe Marin, the Diamant beach. These beaches are beautiful, no one disputes that. But they can also be packed at peak hours, sometimes disappointing when you were expecting something more intimate. What the guides never mention is that the island hides dozens of coves that appear on no tourist map.
Here are five beaches I recommend to clients who want to see the real Martinique, off the beaten track. Some require effort, others just a little boldness to keep driving when everyone else stops. Every single one is worth it.
01
Plage de Sinaï: the end of the world you have to seek out
If I could only keep one beach in all of Martinique, it would be this one. Plage de Sinaï sits at the far north of the island, beyond the village of Grand'Rivière, at the end of a winding mountain road. Cliffs, black volcanic sand, a deep blue sea. Nothing like the beaches in the south. Most of the time you'll be alone, or nearly so.
Mégane's tip
Whether at sunset or sunrise, the colours on this beach are extraordinary. Stay overnight locally so you can take your time and rest before hitting the road again.
02
Anse Belleville: the beach everyone drives past without seeing
Anse Belleville runs alongside the road leading to Le Prêcheur and most drivers pass it without noticing. No sign, no car park. Just a slight slope on your left coming from Saint-Pierre, after the village of Le Prêcheur. On weekdays it's empty, often just you. When the sea is calm it's also a great snorkelling spot: clear water, rocky bottom, marine life.
Good to know
Keep an eye on your left coming from Saint-Pierre, after Le Prêcheur village. It passes quickly. Bring mask and snorkel. Nothing on site, bring water and food.
03
Anse à Voile: the wild beach you earn with effort
This one you have to earn. Anse à Voile is in Le Prêcheur, in the wild north of Martinique, and it's only accessible on foot. Allow about 1 hour of walking from the Anse Couleuvre car park, along a coastal path through dense tropical vegetation. Many people stop at Anse Couleuvre, already very beautiful, and turn back. My advice: keep going. Take a break at Anse Lévrier along the way, worth the detour, then push on to Anse à Voile. You'll find a wild, isolated beach, preserved precisely because it demands this effort. Few people, crystal-clear water, untouched nature all around.
Mégane's tip
Arrive before 9am at the Anse Couleuvre car park, spots are limited and go fast at weekends. Weekdays are much quieter. Wear trainers rather than sandals, the path can be slippery between roots and mud after rain.
04
Anse Meunier: two kilometres past Les Salines, and nobody
Every year thousands of people park at Les Salines, look for peace and quiet, don't find it, and leave disappointed. Just two kilometres further, Anse Meunier is right there. Almost empty. The water is calm, a reef holds back the waves and creates a sheltered swimming area that's perfect for children.
Good to know
From Les Salines, a coastal path leads to Anse Meunier in about twenty minutes on foot. By car, head for "Anse Michel" from Sainte-Anne, then watch for the sign. Nothing on site: bring water, food and a mask.
05
Plage de Cap Macré: the road few people dare to take
Cap Macré is on the south-east coast of Le Marin, on the Atlantic side. The road is poorly signposted, few people venture there, and that's what keeps it quiet. White sand, water shifting from turquoise to deep blue within a few metres, leaning coconut palms. On calm days you swim, though the water entry is fairly abrupt. On windy days you come to watch the waves, and that's just as good.
Mégane's tip
Continuing along the path just beyond, you'll find Anse Four à Chaux, which is truly worth the detour too.
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